Isla del Sol, Birthplace of the Sun

Today we hired a boat and guide to take us on a tour of the Islas del Sol and de la Luna. Stately ruins and pretty little sedate farming villages are scattered along the island. They're so picturesque and the sun shines so bright and warm compared to the rest of Western Bolivia it seems absolutely magical.

The Isla del Sol, or Island of the Sun, is supposedly the birthplace of the sun itself as well as the Inca god-king Viracocha and their Adam and Eve, Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo. It's at the center of the Tiahuanaco creation story, and in turn, the Aymara and Quechua (Inca) creation stories.

The biggest ruin complex is the Santuario, an elaborate temple surrounding the Huellas del Sol, or footprints of the sun, where the sun was believed to have been born. It was once the primary Inca pilgrimage site, attracting thousands of worshippers each year, most of whom weren't even allowed on the island, let alone near or into the temple. My favorite of the ruins were the Escalera del Inca, a steep stone staircase down a natural amplitheater and through impressive agricultural terracing, along which a freshwater culvert runs. The three feeder springs represent the three Inca maxims: Don't steal, don't lie, don't be lazy.

Northwest of the Isla del Sol is the smaller Isla de la Luna, or Island of the Moon. It was also called Coati Island, or Queen Island, as it was associated with women. The temple on is island was used for offerings to the moon, but is often called the Temple of Virgins, as it was staffed exclusively by young women. Ironically, the island was also used as a clandestine detention center for political prisoners in throughout 20th century. Because every country's gotta have a little Gitmo.

Northeast of the Isla del Sol you can barely see a submerged stone column. The underwater area nearby was excavated, revealing a massive stone temple and precious gold, silver and stone artifacts, Bolivia's own Atlantis.