Ally Abroad

Out and About in the Big Wide World

Friday, March 28, 2008

Goodbye Bolivia

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It’s our last day in Bolivia and I’m super sad to go. The second I stopped being homesick and started enjoying it and speaking better Spanis...
Thursday, March 27, 2008

The Other Great Andean Empire

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Today we visited Tiahuanaco (or Tiwanaku), an archaeological site about an hour outside of La Paz. Tiahuanaco is, in many ways, the cradle o...
Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Isla del Sol, Birthplace of the Sun

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Today we hired a boat and guide to take us on a tour of the Islas del Sol and de la Luna. Stately ruins and pretty little sedate farming vil...
Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Copacabana, As Close As Bolivia Comes to the Sea

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Yesterday we traveled from Lago Poopó to Lago Titcaca. Awesome, I know. I've been waiting all trip to say that. But all silliness aside,...
Sunday, March 23, 2008

Salty! In a good way.

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On the final leg of the southwest circuit we crossed the Salars Chiguana, Uyuni and Coipasa. The Salar de Uyuni is the largest salt flat on ...
Saturday, March 22, 2008

The Southwest Circuit

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We left Tupiza and headed southwest towards the Chilean and Argentinean borders and the Reserva de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa, into some of...
Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Kid, the Next Time I Say Let’s Go Someplace Like Bolivia, Let’s Go Someplace Like Bolivia!

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Last night we travelled to Tupiza, a tiny, dusty, somewhat deserted mining town. While the minerals have all but been exhausted, the lower a...
Tuesday, March 18, 2008

I am Rich Potosí, Treasure of the World, King of the Mountains, Envy of Kings

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In the late 15th century Potosi was one of the largest cities on earth, larger than New York, Paris or London. Today, it’s a city of crumbli...
Sunday, March 16, 2008

Eating Human Hearts and Drinking Grain Gin

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Today we visited Tarabuco, a small village Southeast of Sucre for the town festival, Phujllay, which means play in Quechua. Phujllay has its...
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Friday, March 14, 2008

Torotoro, The Land Before Time

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Yesterday was my last day in Cochabamba. While I was sad to go, we left in a chartered six-seater Cesna, flying over the lush green countrys...
Saturday, March 8, 2008

Accidentally Advocating Extrajudicial Justice

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My work in Cochabamba is quickly drawing to a close. I had a funny experience a few days ago that made me feel like my time here has come fu...
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Tuesday, March 4, 2008

Dealing with Death as Bolivians Do

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In the last year I’ve lost a lot of wonderful people way too early. Recently, malaria meds have been forcing me to face these deaths, turnin...
Friday, February 29, 2008

When Being a Good Parent Means Going Away

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My apologies for the paucity of posts. I have been absolutely swamped at work. One of our communities is having a leadership conflict , whi...
Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Saving the Rainforest and Avoiding Rabies

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Despite its chronic instability, the Chapare is an absolutely amazing place. Villa Tunari has a lazy, laid back feel, with abundant cold ce...
Monday, February 18, 2008

The Chapare and the Coca Conflict

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I decided to take a weekend during the week, since we work on Saturdays and Sundays, and venture out to Villa Tunari, in the Chapare region...
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Thursday, February 14, 2008

Swingin'

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Bolivians don't do Valentines Day, but in honor of the occasion, I though give a little anthropological account of another courtship rit...
Sunday, February 10, 2008

Political Participation, Bolivian Style

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Missing Super Tuesday and the Washington State Caucuses made me a little sad. Instead, I've been participating in Bolivian politics, whi...
Friday, February 8, 2008

El Milagro de Mira

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I finally put up some photos up on Picasa . I just couldn't do Carnaval justice describing it. There are just a few favorites because my...
Monday, February 4, 2008

Fire for the People

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I had an amazing experience today. A moment where my time here in Bolivia, if not on earth, made complete sense. I was sitting in a cafe, wo...
Saturday, February 2, 2008

Caray for Carnaval!

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I didn’t think holidays could get any cooler than Alasitas , and then along came Carnaval. A UNESCO Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible H...
Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Al Gore, Bring on the Ark!

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I hear Seattle is having snow! Here, it oscillates between seventy degree wether and severe rainstorms. Sometimes I sun myself on the roof i...
Sunday, January 27, 2008

Happy Tinku!

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I was shopping in the Cancha today when something spectacular caught my eye. This pirated DVD cost me all of 3bs (50¢) and may be my new pri...
Friday, January 25, 2008

Alasitaing It

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Yesterday I took the day off of work and spent seven hours, each way, on a bus La Paz to experience Alasitas. And it was well worth it. Alas...
Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Hungry Ally Haiku

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Juicy, spicy, sweet. Oh savory salteña. Fill my mouth with mmm. Piping hot, pica. A perfect little pastry. Meat and veggies, POW. Only three...
Monday, January 21, 2008

Scared and Psyched to Shop

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La Cancha, the market here in Cochabamba, is the biggest market in Bolivia. It makes going shopping simultaneously one of the most fantastic...
Saturday, January 19, 2008

Welcome to the Working Week

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I’ve finally started work, settled into some semblance of a routine and have a shaky understanding of what we’re doing. My team consists of ...
Thursday, January 17, 2008

And An Entirely Other Waterwar!

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Carnival is quickly approaching. Here in Cochabamba, that means only one thing: A gigantic, all-out, no-holds-barred, city-wide waterfight. ...
Tuesday, January 15, 2008

The Water War

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Today, as in 2000, Cochabamba has chronic water shortages. Where I live we can go days without running water. In the outlying and rural area...
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